“Count Rumford was both a curse and a blessing to German cuisine—the creator of the famous Rumford soup, which saved millions of lives yet also wrought lasting damage. In the late 18th century, this restless man—who was not a cook at all, but rather a soldier and politician, physicist and philanthropist, weapons inventor and social reformer—invented this extraordinarily nutritious dish. Thick as porridge and as tasteless as wallpaper paste, it consists primarily of pearl barley—hulled barley grains—and served not only to fill the bellies of the armies of Rumford’s patron, the Bavarian Elector Karl Theodor, but was also distributed to the most destitute in the workhouses. For just three pennies a day, one could feed a human being—so the Count boasted—without considering that, in doing so, he cemented pearl barley’s reputation as "poor man’s food" for a long time to come, effectively ruining its standing as a delicacy for two centuries.
He can still recall regulars who, due to traumatic childhood memories, steadfastly refused to eat his barley soup, says Sascha Stemberg. He is the fifth-generation proprietor of *Haus Stemberg*—founded in 1864 in the Bergisches Land region—where he regularly serves this supposedly proletarian soup. Since the days of his great-grandparents, he notes, it has remained a house classic—its miserable reputation notwithstanding—and pearl barley appears on his menu in many other guises as well. "If you treat it with care and sensitivity, it is a wonderful ingredient—if only because, thanks to its high starch content, it readily absorbs the color and flavor of other ingredients," says Stemberg.
Humans have held this view for 10,000 years, making pearl barley one of their oldest staple foods. In Mesopotamia and in the Egypt of the Pharaohs, it topped the menu—the The ancient Greeks brewed beer from them, and Roman gladiators consumed them in vast quantities because they provided the vital energy needed for their battles—earning them the nickname "hordearii," or "barley eaters," from the *Populus Romanum*. Yet, over the centuries, the reputation of pearl barley—now prepared without any flair or imagination—steadily declined, until Count Rumford arrived and dealt it the final blow. And yet, it is a veritable treasure trove of nature: low in fat, high in fiber and complex carbohydrates (providing those gladiatorial energy reserves), and packed with Vitamin B, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, folic acid, and beta-glucans—in short, everything a healthy gut, a resilient nervous system, and a robust immune system require. For this very reason, it was used as a medicinal remedy throughout European antiquity and continues to be employed as such in traditional Chinese medicine to this day.
Ever since his father, Walter, introduced the groundbreaking concept of "two kitchens under one roof—at one table" at *Haus Stemberg*—offering impeccable home-style cooking on one side, and *haute cuisine* (awarded a Michelin star since 2014) on the other—Sascha Stemberg has continued to refine this soup to perfection. The vegetables are now cut into the finest *brunoise*; the sequence in which ingredients are added is meticulously observed to synchronize cooking times; and the bacon is sautéed with the onions very slowly to ensure that every last aroma is released. The pearl barley must retain a firm bite—much like a risotto—for if overcooked, it quickly turns mushy. And the *Mettwurst* sausage must be finger-thin, double-smoked, and encased in a lamb casing—for only then will it turn beautifully crisp when seared.
The chef has one more insider tip up his sleeve: he recommends preparing the soup one to three days in advance, covering it, and allowing the flavors to meld in the refrigerator—so that... ...allowing all the ingredients to blend together and develop their full aroma. Naturally, this does not apply to the *Mettwurst*; it is seared *à la minute*—and, most importantly, the rendered fat is added directly into the soup. In this way, the barley soup is transformed into a true delicacy; indeed, Sascha Stemberg confides that whenever his colleagues—those boasting one, two, or even three Michelin stars—dine on his gourmet tasting menu, they invariably request his version of Rumford soup as an extra course.
Barley Soup with Seared Mettwurst (Serves 4)
Peel 1 small white onion and cut into fine dice. Cut 150g of sliced smoked bacon into small cubes as well. Peel, wash, and finely dice 120g of firm-cooking potatoes. Clean, peel, and cut into small cubes 1 carrot and 100g of celeriac. Halve 1 leek (choose a slender one, using only the white part) lengthwise, wash thoroughly, and cut into thin half-rings.
Heat 80ml of rapeseed oil in a pot; first add the onion, then the bacon, and sauté over medium heat for 8–10 minutes until translucent (without letting them take on any color). Add 120g of pearl barley and sauté briefly; after about 5 minutes, pour in 1.2 liters of beef broth and add 1 bay leaf and 1 tablespoon of dried marjoram. Let the mixture simmer uncovered over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Next, add the potatoes; after another 10 minutes, add the carrot and celery. Finally, add the leek, bring everything to a vigorous boil, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let steep for 30 minutes.
Cut 250g of fresh *Mettwurst* (smoked pork sausage) diagonally into thin slices or small cubes. Heat 1 tablespoon of clarified butter in a frying pan over medium heat and fry the sausage pieces until well-browned and slightly crisp. To serve, reheat the barley soup if necessary and ladle it into deep plates or bowls. Arrange the sausage pieces—along with the rendered fat from frying—on top, and sprinkle everything with 4 tablespoons of finely chopped chives.” [1]
1. Die Leibspeise der Gladiatoren: Graupensuppe ist für viele Menschen das reine Grauen, der Inbegriff einer geschmacklosen Armenspeise - höchste Zeit, die Version des Sternekochs Sascha Stemberg zu probieren. Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung; Frankfurt. 09 Jan 2026: 14. JAKOB STROBEL Y SERRA
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