"Think of Alaska and you might
envision remotest-of-the-remote backcountry lodges, unnerving glimpses of
grizzly bears, salmon eluding the fishing line -- with the image of a bearded
outdoorsman looming over it all. But you needn't be a hairy survivalist to
access the land of the midnight sun.
Of the state's eight national parks, three
can be reached via a road trip from Anchorage, ideal for hikers and wildlife
lovers who prefer creature comforts over a nylon tent and a fresh cat hole.
All
three offer close encounters with the Alaskan wilderness, but each has its own
versions of funky gateway towns, animal-viewing opportunities and adventures
for every skill level.
A Classic Alaskan Amble
Denali National Park
Denali means "the high
one" in the indigenous Koyukon language, and on a clear day you can see
the 20,310-foot mountain's glaciers from Anchorage, the state's largest city.
But it's a long and winding 240-mile drive to reach the park, which is most
crowded from June through August.
In September the first whispers of fall
arrive and the tundra flaunts its most startling foliage. Typically, snow
hasn't yet compromised the trails, the bears are chomping the last of the
soapberries, and the sun shines 'til 8:30 p.m., allowing for full days and
restful nights.
Since you'll rent a car in
Anchorage, tack on an extra day to explore Alaska's largest city before heading
into the wilderness. Spend the morning at the Alaska Native Heritage Center
learning about the traditions of the state's indigenous people. Then, leave the
car behind for the afternoon and head to Trek Bike Rentals in the city center
to grab some alternative wheels. Pedal along the Knik Arm waterway before
rewarding yourself with a cup of fireweed ice cream at Wild Scoops. Return the
bike and plan for an early night, so you can be fresh for the morning's drive.
Right before mile 99, stop for a
break at Talkeetna, where mountaineers base themselves for attempts on the
park's namesake summit (spot the climbers by their raccoon suntans and vivid
spandex). Try the sourdough hot cakes at Talkeetna Roadhouse, made with a
legendary starter from 1902. Look for the marked viewpoint around the 134 mile
mark, where you'll be able to capture Denali in all its glory.
Drivers have a distinct advantage
over the cruise ship crowds when visiting the park proper, as the first 15
miles of Denali's 92-mile Park Road are accessible by private vehicle (a
"road lottery" for four days in September lets a lucky few venture
further). Pull over and keep an eye out for caribou while walking Savage River
Loop Trail or break a sweat on the more strenuous Savage Alpine Trail (just
don't forget bear spray). Whichever you choose, base yourself out of the
locally owned Denali Overlook Inn and spend an extra day hopping on and off
Denali's iconic green buses, which travel past mile 15, into the park's
astonishing tundra.
Crevasses and
Copper Mines
Wrangell-St. Elias
National Park
The largest national park in the
U.S., Wrangell-St. Elias offers some of the most accessible glacier
gazing and ice climbing in the state. Roughly seven hours to the east of
Anchorage by car, the park has earned a reputation for its mining history, and
its phenomenal hiking and rafting.
Follow the braided sapphire curves
of the Knik River on your way out of Anchorage, then stop 103 miles in to gaze
at the serrated, icy fins of the Matanuska Glacier from a bluff off Glenn
Highway. Keep your eyes peeled for the curled horns of Dall sheep beginning at
mile 120, where the road cuts through immense mountain passes. Continue on to
Chitina, a hub for salmon fishing and the last spot to fill up on gas before
braving the notorious, 60-mile washboard road to the town of McCarthy.
Plan for a rough-and-tumble two to
three hours on this remote scenic byway, once the path of a prosperous
copper-mining railway. Park at the McCarthy Footbridge -- where "the road
ends and the adventure begins," as locals say -- and walk, bike or shuttle
further into the park. Serious hikers will want to tackle a nine-mile trek from
the century-old mining village of Kennecott to the abandoned Bonanza Mine.
Exploring this enormous park
requires multiple days, so post up at Ma Johnson's Hotel, once a boardinghouse
for miners and their families, and join an all-day glacier hike or ice climbing
trip with St. Elias Alpine Guides. Once you've worked up an appetite, chow down
on hand-cut curly fries and sockeye salmon at the Potato.
Out on the Water
Kenai Fjords
National Park
Though the drive from Anchorage to
the seaside town of Seward-and the adjacent Kenai Fjords National Park-is a
manageable 2 1/2 hours by car, the journey itself is worth savoring. Stop at
Beluga Point, 20 minutes south of town, for a chance to spot the namesake
porcelain-white cetaceans in the wild, then continue curving around the rugged
shoreline of Turnagain Arm and the towering coastal mountains of Chugach State
Park, passing Alyeska Nordic Spa along the way. Make a mental note for
post-park soaking and massages.
September is the end of
silver-salmon season on the Kenai Peninsula, and Cooper Landing and Russian
River are some of the best spots to watch them jockey upstream to spawn.
Once in the port city of Seward,
load up on caffeine and pastries at the Resurrect Art Coffee House, a former
church that's now a gallery and roaster, then shop for handmade stoneware at
Nakao Ceramics.
Kenai Fjords is a whale-watching and
watersport-lover's paradise, with options ranging from half-day humpback
viewing excursions to backcountry kayaking trips, all conveniently leaving from
Seward. To get a bit of everything, splurge on an all-day Aialik Glacier kayak
tour with Kayak Adventures Worldwide, which includes a lunch stop at a rapidly
calving tidewater glacier. If you're keen to stay on land, challenge yourself
on an eight-mile round-trip trek along the Harding Icefield Trail, pausing at
Marmot Meadows to check out heavily crevassed Exit Glacier and the surly
rodents who give the area its name. Back in Seward, feast on fried chicken and
sweet pea hummus at the Cookery. You deserve it." [1]