"Think of Alaska and you might envision remotest-of-the-remote backcountry lodges, unnerving glimpses of grizzly bears, salmon eluding the fishing line -- with the image of a bearded outdoorsman looming over it all. But you needn't be a hairy survivalist to access the land of the midnight sun.
Of the state's eight national parks, three can be reached via a road trip from Anchorage, ideal for hikers and wildlife lovers who prefer creature comforts over a nylon tent and a fresh cat hole.
All three offer close encounters with the Alaskan wilderness, but each has its own versions of funky gateway towns, animal-viewing opportunities and adventures for every skill level.
A Classic Alaskan Amble
Denali National Park
Denali means "the high one" in the indigenous Koyukon language, and on a clear day you can see the 20,310-foot mountain's glaciers from Anchorage, the state's largest city. But it's a long and winding 240-mile drive to reach the park, which is most crowded from June through August.
In September the first whispers of fall arrive and the tundra flaunts its most startling foliage. Typically, snow hasn't yet compromised the trails, the bears are chomping the last of the soapberries, and the sun shines 'til 8:30 p.m., allowing for full days and restful nights.
Since you'll rent a car in Anchorage, tack on an extra day to explore Alaska's largest city before heading into the wilderness. Spend the morning at the Alaska Native Heritage Center learning about the traditions of the state's indigenous people. Then, leave the car behind for the afternoon and head to Trek Bike Rentals in the city center to grab some alternative wheels. Pedal along the Knik Arm waterway before rewarding yourself with a cup of fireweed ice cream at Wild Scoops. Return the bike and plan for an early night, so you can be fresh for the morning's drive.
Right before mile 99, stop for a break at Talkeetna, where mountaineers base themselves for attempts on the park's namesake summit (spot the climbers by their raccoon suntans and vivid spandex). Try the sourdough hot cakes at Talkeetna Roadhouse, made with a legendary starter from 1902. Look for the marked viewpoint around the 134 mile mark, where you'll be able to capture Denali in all its glory.
Drivers have a distinct advantage over the cruise ship crowds when visiting the park proper, as the first 15 miles of Denali's 92-mile Park Road are accessible by private vehicle (a "road lottery" for four days in September lets a lucky few venture further). Pull over and keep an eye out for caribou while walking Savage River Loop Trail or break a sweat on the more strenuous Savage Alpine Trail (just don't forget bear spray). Whichever you choose, base yourself out of the locally owned Denali Overlook Inn and spend an extra day hopping on and off Denali's iconic green buses, which travel past mile 15, into the park's astonishing tundra.
Crevasses and
Copper Mines
Wrangell-St. Elias
National Park
The largest national park in the U.S., Wrangell-St. Elias offers some of the most accessible glacier gazing and ice climbing in the state. Roughly seven hours to the east of Anchorage by car, the park has earned a reputation for its mining history, and its phenomenal hiking and rafting.
Follow the braided sapphire curves of the Knik River on your way out of Anchorage, then stop 103 miles in to gaze at the serrated, icy fins of the Matanuska Glacier from a bluff off Glenn Highway. Keep your eyes peeled for the curled horns of Dall sheep beginning at mile 120, where the road cuts through immense mountain passes. Continue on to Chitina, a hub for salmon fishing and the last spot to fill up on gas before braving the notorious, 60-mile washboard road to the town of McCarthy.
Plan for a rough-and-tumble two to three hours on this remote scenic byway, once the path of a prosperous copper-mining railway. Park at the McCarthy Footbridge -- where "the road ends and the adventure begins," as locals say -- and walk, bike or shuttle further into the park. Serious hikers will want to tackle a nine-mile trek from the century-old mining village of Kennecott to the abandoned Bonanza Mine.
Exploring this enormous park requires multiple days, so post up at Ma Johnson's Hotel, once a boardinghouse for miners and their families, and join an all-day glacier hike or ice climbing trip with St. Elias Alpine Guides. Once you've worked up an appetite, chow down on hand-cut curly fries and sockeye salmon at the Potato.
Out on the Water
Kenai Fjords
National Park
Though the drive from Anchorage to the seaside town of Seward-and the adjacent Kenai Fjords National Park-is a manageable 2 1/2 hours by car, the journey itself is worth savoring. Stop at Beluga Point, 20 minutes south of town, for a chance to spot the namesake porcelain-white cetaceans in the wild, then continue curving around the rugged shoreline of Turnagain Arm and the towering coastal mountains of Chugach State Park, passing Alyeska Nordic Spa along the way. Make a mental note for post-park soaking and massages.
September is the end of silver-salmon season on the Kenai Peninsula, and Cooper Landing and Russian River are some of the best spots to watch them jockey upstream to spawn.
Once in the port city of Seward, load up on caffeine and pastries at the Resurrect Art Coffee House, a former church that's now a gallery and roaster, then shop for handmade stoneware at Nakao Ceramics.
Kenai Fjords is a whale-watching and watersport-lover's paradise, with options ranging from half-day humpback viewing excursions to backcountry kayaking trips, all conveniently leaving from Seward. To get a bit of everything, splurge on an all-day Aialik Glacier kayak tour with Kayak Adventures Worldwide, which includes a lunch stop at a rapidly calving tidewater glacier. If you're keen to stay on land, challenge yourself on an eight-mile round-trip trek along the Harding Icefield Trail, pausing at Marmot Meadows to check out heavily crevassed Exit Glacier and the surly rodents who give the area its name. Back in Seward, feast on fried chicken and sweet pea hummus at the Cookery. You deserve it." [1]
1. OFF DUTY --- Adventure & Travel: The Road to Awe --- Alaska can seem impenetrable but these three national parks are just a drive away. The only struggle? Keeping your eyes on the road. Pennington, Emily.
Wall Street Journal, Eastern edition; New York, N.Y.. 02 Sep 2023: D.5.
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