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2023 m. birželio 22 d., ketvirtadienis

Patarimas Harvardo studentams: „Nemeskite H-bombos be reikalo“ --- Diskusijos kyla dėl prekės ženklo bagažo. – Ar turėtumėte pasakyti, kad tai tik mokykla už Bostono ribų?


     „Gruodžio mėnesio interviu universiteto laikraščiui Harvardo koledžo dekanas Rakeshas Khurana gavo galimybę patarti senjorams.

 

     „Nemeskite H bombos be reikalo“, – sakė Khurana.

 

     H-bomba tiems, kurie nežino kalbos apie garsiausią Ivy League mokyklą, yra termobranduolinis veiksmas garsiai pasakyti, kad lanko arba lankė Harvardą. Paaiškinti kam nors ne iš Harvardo, kad lankėtės Harvarde, yra sudėtingas, Harvardo studentai jums ne kartą pasakys.

 

     Daugelį metų Ivy Leaguers buvo akivaizdžiai neaiškios apie tai, kur lankė mokyklą. Tačiau pokalbis su H bomba pasiekė aukščiausią lygį.

 

     Tikimybė patekti į Harvardą yra istorinėje žemumoje, o Aukščiausiasis Teismas yra pasirengęs šį mėnesį pasverti, ar Harvardo teigiamų veiksmų programa yra konstitucinė. Didelio atgarsio sulaukęs teismo procesas, vykęs prieš Aukštojo teismo bylą, atskleidė neskaidrų Harvardo atrankos procesą, įskaitant įrodymus, kad donorų vaikai, alumnų palikuonys ir socialiai ir ekonomiškai nepalankioje padėtyje esantys kandidatai iš priėmimo skyriaus gauna ypatingą dėmesį.

 

     Šie apreiškimai paskatino Masačusetso įstatymų leidėjus neseniai priimti įstatymą, kuriame siūloma apmokestinti mokyklų, kuriose atsižvelgiama į pareiškėjo palikimo statusą arba priimant ankstyvą priėmimą, o tai dažniausiai naudinga pasiturinčių šeimų studentams.

 

     0,2% priemoka Harvardui kainuotų apie 100 milijonų dolerių per metus ir finansuotų valstijos bendruomenės kolegijas. Įstatymo projektas numatytas šį mėnesį Masačusetso įstatymų leidžiamosios valdžios komiteto svarstymui.

 

     Nenuostabu, kad Harvardo pareigūnai kovoja su savo prekės ženklo rinkodaros iššūkiais.

 

     „H-bombos reiškinys yra tai, apie ką Harvardo absolventai kalba gana reguliariai... jie visada šiek tiek atsargiai įveda šį kredencialą į pokalbį“, – sakė Harvardo verslo mokyklos rinkodaros ir komunikacijos vadovas Brianas Kenny. Aukštojo mokslo rinkodaros podcast'as praėjusiais metais, seriale, pavadintame iš dalies „Susiduriant su H-Bomba“.

 

     „Kadangi Harvardo prekės ženklas, nors jis yra gerai žinomas ir gerbiamas daugelyje sluoksnių, jis taip pat vertinamas neigiamai – žmonės galvoja apie tai kaip apie elitinį prekės ženklą“, – sakė jis.

 

     Studentai teisūs, prieš numesdami H-bombą, atidžiai pasveria savo žodžius, sako Michaelas Sandelis, Harvardo profesorius ir knygos „Nuopelnų tironija“ autorius. 

 

„Universitetus pavertėme rūšiavimo mašinomis“, – sako jis.

 

     Daugeliui, įskaitant kai kuriuos Harvarde, šis pokalbis yra baisus. "Gerai, pirmiausia nusiraminkite. Jūs perpus svarbesnis, nei manote esantis, ir dvigubai bjauresnis", - rašė Harvardo studentas ir nuomonės apžvalgininkas mokyklos laikraštyje "Kaip aš išmokau nustoti nerimauti ir Mylėk bombą“. (Dabar baigęs mokslus, studentas sako, kad niekam nerūpi, kur jis mokėsi.)

 

     Pirmą kartą terminas „H-bomba“ buvo paminėtas „The Crimson“ 1990 m., kai Kennethas Katzas, tuomet Harvardo antro kurso studentas, parašė stulpelį, kuriame apgailestavo dėl „pokalbio nelaimės“, kilusios iš klausimo: „Kur tu eini į koledžą? Katzas manė, kad studentai ne universiteto miestelyje buvo laikomi protingais ir galbūt šiek tiek snobais.

 

     Daktaras Katzas, kuriam dabar 51 metai ir kuris yra Bay Area dermatologas, sako, kad daug negalvoja apie išvykimą į Harvardą, nes nuo jo išvykimo praėjo tiek daug laiko, įskaitant Harvardo medicinos mokyklos lankymą.

 

     – Ar žinai, kaip jie tai vadina? Jis sako, turėdamas omenyje studentus, kurie lankė Harvardo koledžą ir Harvardo medicinos mokyklą. "Pasiruošimas H. Tai ta pati gyslelė, šiek tiek save nuvertinanti ir šiek tiek save aukštinanti tuo pačiu metu."

 

     H-bombos terminas yra labai pašiepiamas Harvardo miestelyje.

 

     „Jei gyvenote Bostone ar Kembridže, jums žinoma frazė „numesti H-Bombą“, – rašoma Biglaw Investor informaciniame biuletenyje 2023 m. kovo mėn. “.

 

     Gruodį „Crimson“ įtraukė H-Bomb į „(Ne) oficialų Harvardo žodyną“.

 

     „Ar turėtumėte pasakyti „mokykla už Bostono“ ir tikėtis, kad jie toliau netyrinės? Ar turėtumėte numesti H bombą?"

 

     Autoriai teigė, kad jų apklausa atskleidė, kad 77% studentų iš karto išeina ir pasako žmonėms, kad lanko Harvardą, kai jų paklausia, 16% atsako netiesiogiai, o kai kurie meluoja ir nurodo kitos mokyklos pavadinimą. Respondentai apibūdino reakcijas, įskaitant: „Škotijos pasimatymas nufotografavo mano asmens dokumentą, kad parodytų savo draugams“.

 

     Athena Ye, užaugusi mažame Ilinojaus mieste, praėjusį mėnesį baigė Harvardo studijas.

 

     "Nenoriu skambėti per daug išdidi. Todėl pasakysiu tai šiek tiek žemesniu tonu, o ne pakilusiu ir neskambėsiu tikrai susijaudinusi", - sako ji. „Stengiuosi tai pasakyti taip, kad bent jau man tai atrodytų mažiau bauginančiai."

 

     Lukas Richey užaugo Virdžinijos kaimo mieste, kuriame gyvena 1000 gyventojų,  dabar studijuoja informatiką Harvarde. Politika jo gimtojoje apskrityje yra konservatyvi, ir jis nerimauja, kad žmonės jo mokyklos pasirinkimą susies su elitizmu, kuris jiems nepatinka.

 

     Numetęs H-Bomb, jis nori pridurti, kad jo tėvai yra mokytojai, o jo valstybinė vidurinė mokykla nevykdė aukštesnio lygio mokymo kursų, tačiau turėjo keletą žemės ūkio pamokų.

 

     „Aš tiesiog bandau nupiešti visą vaizdą“, – sako jis.“ [1]

 

1. Tip to Harvard Students: 'Don't Gratuitously Drop the H-Bomb' --- Debate stirs over brand's baggage. 'Should you say a school outside of Boston?' Belkin, Douglas. 
Wall Street Journal, Eastern edition; New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]. 22 June 2023: A.1.

TikTok Whims Upend R&D For U.S. Consumer Businesses.


Smothered in a special sauce, the "Keithadilla" was a breakout hit for Chipotle Mexican Grill in the first quarter. It also gave the company indigestion.

The twist on Chipotle's traditional quesadilla was invented by a popular TikTok food influencer as an off-menu "hack." Soon, the Mexican fast-casual chain was overwhelmed by custom orders. The item took longer to make and its mix of ingredients flustered workers, especially when the sauce -- a combination of sour cream and chipotle-honey vinaigrette -- ran out. When some staffers refused to make the off-menu item, customers began posting angry reviews online.

Chipotle faced a decision: Give in to the whims of TikTok or risk losing business. The Keithadilla is now a permanent menu item. "We want to be at the pulse of culture," said Chris Brandt, the chain's chief marketing officer.

TikTok has become an unavoidable consideration for anyone running a consumer-facing business today. Owned by Beijing-based ByteDance, the social app has proved a force in marketing and media, and helped brands monitor consumer trends. According to CEO Shou Chew, five million businesses use the platform.

For all its mind-reading insights, the platform has also become a disruptive force in research and development, upending conventional wisdom about product cycles, testing, differentiation and manufacturing.

Companies scramble to mass-produce products, or fix existing ones, based on feedback that often has a very short shelf life. It's a gamble -- one that many executives say is necessary if they want to win over younger shoppers and keep up with the competition. Even though the app faces bans in the U.S., where the Biden administration has raised national-security concerns that the company says are misplaced, businesses are shaping their product decisions around it.

"Every single merchant and designer is looking at TikTok," said Corey Robinson, chief product officer for fashion retailer Abercrombie & Fitch, who calls the platform "a billion-person focus group."

Tarte Cosmetics has been taking TikTok trends into account as it develops new beauty products. Last year, employees noticed that color-shifting products were going viral on the platform.

Producing the Maracuja Juicy Lip and Cheek Shift, which the company says changes its hue based on the skin's pH levels, meant taking 2 a.m. calls with Korean factories said Anna Sponaugle, a senior vice president. Maureen Kelly, Tarte's founder and chief executive, cleared her schedule.

The product came together in three months. Sponaugle described the process as chaotic, given most cosmetics take more than a year.

According to the brand, the Maracuja Juicy Lip and Cheek Shift is its fastest-selling product of all time. Three months of inventory sold out in four weeks.

The company failed to launch a body-glitter product inspired by TikTok's interest in beauty looks from the 2000s. Tarte located a supplier that could make biodegradable glitter -- a nod to today's environmental concerns -- but the lead time was too long.

"You have to get things out right when they are trendy," Sponaugle said. "If you do it too late, it's not even worth it."

TikTok collaborations can be harrowing for even the gutsiest startups. WYOS, a personal-care company that launched in February, thought it would be a good idea to share its new moisturizer, which comes in stick form, with TikTok influencers to see what they made of it.

The company discovered creators were planning to upload videos that featured them popping the moisturizer into the freezer to show audiences how it could be used as a face-massaging tool.

WYOS co-founder Wendy Charland said the moisturizer isn't designed to withstand freezing temperatures, and could burn the skin if applied afterward. WYOS scrapped the influencers' videos, though it is consulting with its lab about creating a freezer-friendly formula while also weighing how such changes would undermine a year's worth of product development.

"We want to be careful about what we tweak," Charland said. "You have to know what's a fleeting trend and what's a trend that lasts."

The story of how "Pink Sauce" went from viral sensation to the shelves of retail giant Walmart is a good example of the TikTok roller coaster.

The Pepto-Bismol-colored dressing was created by Veronica Shaw, a 30-year-old social-media influencer and private chef based in Miami who is known as Chef Pii. Shaw's sauce became an online phenomenon last summer thanks to a slew of TikTok videos that featured her smothering different foods -- from chicken wings to french fries to shrimp to tacos -- with a fluorescent concoction that got its color from dragon fruit.

After Shaw began selling her sauce directly to consumers online, some customers complained on TikTok that her nutrition labels contained mistakes, or that the sauce was spoiled when it was delivered.

Shaw acknowledged a packaging issue with the first shipment and that some bottles got damaged, but said it involved fewer than 50 packages. "Just like any other up-and-coming brands, they go through trial and error," said Shaw.

Dave's Gourmet, a Dallas-based specialty food company, saw an opportunity, according to Chief Executive David Neuman. The company formed a partnership with Shaw giving Dave's responsibility for the product's commercial formula, manufacturing, distribution, sales and marketing -- outside of digital media. Shaw receives a royalty from each sale and continues to be responsible for driving social media buzz.

Dave's tweaked the formula to make the sauce vegan, less complicated and suited for mass distribution. At one point, Dave's had to slow down production because its supplier ran out of dragonfruit. Local investigators from the Food and Drug Administration seized samples of the sauce to be tested for any issues. Neuman believes the product satisfied all the regulators' needs because he never heard back. The FDA declined to comment.

Dave's turned the TikTok trend into a nationally distributed product in 90 days, something that usually takes more than a year. Neuman is happy with the result, but said he still has "night tremors" when he thinks about how fast they had to move.

For decades, brands like H & M and Zara copied fashion trends and churned them out in a matter of weeks. Now, a new generation of fast-fashion retailers makes clothes in days, finely tuning their machines to the TikTok algorithm that dictates what's in style.

Edikted, a fast-fashion company, releases 150 monthly styles based on viral TikTok clips, said the founder and chief executive, Dedy Shwartzberg. The company has technology that monitors popular TikTok videos and identifies which styles to copy, as does its team of trend experts.

"For us, it's like a lab," Shwartzberg said. "Retailers in the past looked at [forecasting firm] WGSN, catwalks, fashion week, and tried to guess what the trends will be. We don't need to guess when we have TikTok."

To keep up with the app's rapid trend cycle, these companies manufacture on an on-demand basis -- a model used by other fast-fashion brands, including Shein. They subcontract to third-party factories, often in China, and place orders in small batches, keeping inventory levels low. Shwartzberg said Edikted averages a 12-day turnaround.

With fast fashion moving at rapid speed -- and TikTok fashion moving even more swiftly -- the gamble for a brand like Edikted is that it might produce a lot of duds. These must be disposed of quickly, often through steep discounting.

In December, Edikted rolled out silver miniskirts and shiny bomber jackets, hoping to jump on an '80s metallic trend, but by February it phased them out. For the past few months, Edikted has been selling backless T-shirts, rolling out new colors and sleeve lengths regularly after watching the style take off on TikTok. It trialed a dress version of the shirt a few weeks ago, but the item bombed and Edikted quickly discontinued it.

"Most of the trends fade within weeks," Shwartzberg said, "But some can last years."" [1]

1. TikTok Whims Upend R&D For U.S. Consumer Businesses. Lieber, Chavie; Vranica, Suzanne. 
Wall Street Journal, Eastern edition; New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]. 22 June 2023: A.1.

„TikTok“ užgaidos apverčia aukštyn kojomis JAV vartotojų verslo tyrimus ir plėtrą

  Specialiu padažu pagardinta „Keithadilla“ buvo „Chipotle Mexican Grill“ hitas pirmąjį ketvirtį. Tai taip pat sukėlė įmonei virškinimo sutrikimų.

 

     „Chipotle“ tradicinės kesadilijos posūkį išrado populiarus „TikTok“ maisto įtakos kūrėjas, kaip „įsilaužimą iš meniu“. Netrukus meksikietiškas greito maisto tinklas buvo priblokštas pagal individualius užsakymus. Prekės gamyba užtruko ilgiau, o jo sudedamųjų dalių mišinys sunervino darbuotojus, ypač kai baigėsi padažas – grietinės ir traškučių-medaus vinaigreto derinys. Kai kurie darbuotojai atsisakė įtraukti į meniu neįtrauktą elementą, klientai pradėjo skelbti piktus atsiliepimus internete.

 

     „Chipotle“ susidūrė su sprendimu: pasiduokite „TikTok“ užgaidoms arba rizikuojate prarasti verslą. Keithadilla dabar yra nuolatinis meniu elementas. „Norime būti kultūros pulsu“, – sakė tinklo rinkodaros vadovas Chrisas Brandtas.

 

     „TikTok“ tapo neišvengiamu svarstymu visiems, kurie šiandien vykdo į vartotoją orientuotą verslą. Pekine įsikūrusiai „ByteDance“ priklausanti socialinė programa pasirodė esanti rinkodaros ir žiniasklaidos jėga ir padėjo prekių ženklams stebėti vartotojų tendencijas. Pasak generalinio direktoriaus Shou Chew, platforma naudojasi penki milijonai įmonių.

 

     Nepaisant visų minčių skaitymo įžvalgų, platforma taip pat tapo žlugdančia jėga moksliniams tyrimams ir plėtrai, skleidžiantiems tradicinę išmintį apie produktų ciklus, testavimą, diferencijavimą ir gamybą.

 

     Įmonės stengiasi gaminti masinę produkciją arba taisyti esamus, remdamosi atsiliepimais, kurių galiojimo laikas dažnai labai trumpas. Tai azartas – daugelio vadovų teigimu, tai būtina, jei nori pritraukti jaunesnius pirkėjus ir neatsilikti nuo konkurencijos. Nors programai taikomi draudimai JAV, kur Bideno administracija iškėlė susirūpinimą dėl nacionalinio saugumo, kurie, bendrovės teigimu, yra nepagrįsti, įmonės čia priima sprendimus dėl produktų.

 

     „Kiekvienas prekybininkas ir dizaineris žiūri į „TikTok“, – sakė Corey Robinsonas, mados mažmeninės prekybos įmonės „Abercrombie & Fitch“ vyriausiasis produktų pareigūnas, platformą vadinantis „milijardine žmonių grupe“.

 

     Kurdama naujus grožio produktus, „Tarte Cosmetics“ atsižvelgė į „TikTok“ tendencijas. Praėjusiais metais darbuotojai pastebėjo, kad platformoje plinta spalvą keičiantys produktai.

 

     Gaminant „Maracuja Juicy Lip and Cheek Shift“, kurio atspalvį, bendrovės teigimu, keičiasi atsižvelgiant į odos pH lygį, reikėjo skambinti 2 val. ryto  Korėjos gamykloms, sakė vyresnioji viceprezidentė Anna Sponaugle. Maureen Kelly, Tarte įkūrėja ir generalinė direktorė, kuri tam išvalė savo tvarkaraštį.

 

     Produktas surinktas per tris mėnesius. Sponaugle šį procesą apibūdino kaip chaotišką, nes dauguma kosmetikos užtrunka ilgiau, nei metus.

 

     Pasak prekės ženklo, „Maracuja Juicy Lip and Cheek Shift“ yra greičiausiai parduodamas visų laikų produktas. Trijų mėnesių atsargos buvo išparduotos per keturias savaites.

 

     Įmonei nepavyko pristatyti kūno blizgesio gaminio, įkvėpto TikTok susidomėjimo grožio išvaizda nuo 2000-ųjų. Tarte surado tiekėją, galintį gaminti biologiškai skaidomus blizgučius, o tai rodo šiandienos aplinkosaugos problemas, tačiau pristatymo laikas buvo per ilgas.

 

     „Turite viską išsiaiškinti, kai jie yra madingi“, - sakė Sponaugle. "Jei tai padarysite per vėlai, tai net neverta prasidėti."

 

     TikTok bendradarbiavimas gali būti varginantis net drąsiausiems startuoliams. WYOS, asmens priežiūros įmonė, veiklą pradėjusi vasario mėnesį, manė, kad būtų gera idėja pasidalinti savo naujuoju drėkinamuoju kremu, kuris tiekiamas lazdelių pavidalu, su TikTok influenceriais, kad pamatytų, ką jie iš jo pagamino.

 

     Kompanija išsiaiškino, kad kūrėjai ketino įkelti vaizdo įrašus, kuriuose vaizduojama, kaip jie deda drėkinamąjį kremą į šaldiklį, kad parodytų auditorijai, kaip jį galima naudoti, kaip veido masažo priemonę.

 

     WYOS įkūrėja Wendy Charland teigė, kad drėkinamasis kremas nėra sukurtas taip, kad atlaikytų užšalimo temperatūrą ir gali nudeginti odą, jei bus naudojamas po užšaldymo. WYOS atsisakė influencerių vaizdo įrašų, nors konsultuojasi su savo laboratorija, kaip sukurti šaldikliui palankią formulę, taip pat pasveria, kaip tokie pakeitimai pakenktų metų trukmės produkto kūrimui.

 

     „Norime būti atsargūs dėl to, ką keičiame“, - sakė Charlandas. "Jūs turite žinoti, kas yra trumpalaikė tendencija, o kas - ilgalaikė."

 

     Istorija apie tai, kaip „Pink Sauce“ nuo virusinės sensacijos pateko į mažmeninės prekybos milžinės „Walmart“ lentynas, yra geras „TikTok“ kalnelių pavyzdys.

 

     Pepto-Bismol spalvos padažą sukūrė Veronica Shaw, 30 metų socialinių tinklų influencerė ir privati virėja, gyvenanti Majamyje, žinoma, kaip Chef Pii. Shaw padažas praėjusią vasarą tapo internetiniu reiškiniu dėl daugybės TikTok vaizdo įrašų, kuriuose buvo rodoma, kaip ji fluorescuojančiu mišiniu, kurio spalvą įgavo nuo drakono vaisių, dusina įvairius maisto produktus – nuo vištienos sparnelių iki gruzdintų bulvyčių iki krevečių iki taco.

 

     Po to, kai Shaw pradėjo pardavinėti savo padažą tiesiogiai vartotojams internetu, kai kurie klientai „TikTok“ skundėsi, kad jos mitybos etiketėse yra klaidų arba padažas  buvo sugadintas, kai buvo pristatytas.

 

     Shaw pripažino pakavimo problemą su pirmąja siunta ir kad kai kurie buteliai buvo pažeisti, tačiau teigė, kad tai buvo mažiau, nei 50 pakuočių. „Kaip ir bet kurie kiti populiarūs prekės ženklai, jie išbando ir klaidos“, - sakė Shaw.

 

     Pasak generalinio direktoriaus Davido Neumano, Dave's Gourmet, Dalaso specializuoto maisto įmonė, pamatė galimybę. Bendrovė užmezgė partnerystę su Shaw, suteikdama Dave'ui atsakomybę už produkto komercinę formulę, gamybą, platinimą, pardavimą ir rinkodarą – ne skaitmeninėje laikmenoje. Shaw gauna autorinį atlyginimą už kiekvieną pardavimą ir toliau yra atsakinga už socialinės žiniasklaidos šurmulį.

 

     Dave'as pakoregavo formulę, kad padažas būtų veganiškas, ne toks sudėtingas ir tinkamas masiniam platinimui. Vienu metu Dave's turėjo sulėtinti gamybą, nes jo tiekėjui pritrūko drakonų vaisių. Vietiniai tyrėjai iš JAV Maisto ir vaistų administracijos konfiskavo padažo pavyzdžius, kad būtų ištirti, ar nėra problemų. Neumanas mano, kad produktas patenkino visus reguliuotojų poreikius, nes jis niekada iš jų pusės daugiau negirdėjo. FDA atsisakė komentuoti.

 

     Dave'as „TikTok“ tendenciją pavertė nacionaliniu mastu platinamu produktu per 90 dienų, o tai paprastai trunka ilgiau, nei metus. Neumanas džiaugiasi rezultatu, bet sakė, kad vis dar jaučia „naktinį drebėjimą“, kai galvoja apie tai, kaip greitai jie turėjo judėti.

 

     Dešimtmečius tokie prekių ženklai, kaip „H&M“ ir „Zara“ kopijavo mados tendencijas ir jas išnaikino per kelias savaites. Dabar naujos kartos greitosios mados mažmenininkai drabužius gamina per kelias dienas, tiksliai suderindami savo mašinas pagal TikTok algoritmą, kuris diktuoja, kas yra madinga.

 

     „Edikted“, greitosios mados įmonė, išleidžia 150 mėnesinių stilių, pagrįstų virusiniais „TikTok“ klipais, sakė įkūrėjas ir generalinis direktorius Dedy Shwartzbergas. Bendrovė turi technologiją, kuri stebi populiarius „TikTok“ vaizdo įrašus ir nustato, kuriuos stilius reikia kopijuoti, kaip ir jos tendencijų ekspertų komanda.

 

     „Mums tai tarsi laboratorija“, – sakė Shwartzbergas. "Anksčiau mažmenininkai žiūrėjo į [prognozavimo įmonę] WGSN, podiumus, mados savaitę ir bandė atspėti, kokios bus tendencijos. Mums nereikia spėlioti, kada turime TikTok."

 

     Siekdamos neatsilikti nuo spartaus programos tendencijų ciklo, šios įmonės gamina pagal poreikį – modelį, kurį naudoja kiti greitosios mados prekės ženklai, įskaitant „Shein“. Jie sudaro subrangos sutartis su trečiųjų šalių gamyklomis, dažnai Kinijoje, ir pateikia užsakymus mažomis partijomis, išlaikydami žemą atsargų kiekį. Shwartzbergas sakė, kad Ediktedas vidutiniškai trunka 12 dienų.

 

     Greitai madai sparčiai judant, o „TikTok“ madai dar sparčiau, tokio prekės ženklo kaip „Edikted“ azartas yra tas, kad jis gali sukelti daug keblumų. Juos reikia greitai išmesti, dažnai taikant dideles nuolaidas.

 

     Gruodžio mėnesį „Edikted“ išleido sidabrinius mini sijonus ir blizgančius „bomber“ švarkus, tikėdamasi peršokti į devintojo dešimtmečio metalo tendenciją, tačiau vasario mėnesį palaipsniui jų atsisakė. Keletą pastarųjų mėnesių „Edikted“ pardavinėjo marškinėlius be nugarų, reguliariai siūlydama naujas spalvas ir rankovių ilgius, stebėdama, kaip „TikTok“ populiarėja stilius. Prieš kelias savaites ji išbandė marškinių suknelės versiją, tačiau gaminys subombardavo ir Ediktedas greitai jį nutraukė.

 

     "Dauguma tendencijų išnyksta per kelias savaites, - sakė Shwartzbergas, - "tačiau kai kurios gali tęstis metų metus." [1]

 

1. TikTok Whims Upend R&D For U.S. Consumer Businesses. Lieber, Chavie; Vranica, Suzanne. 
Wall Street Journal, Eastern edition; New York, N.Y. [New York, N.Y]. 22 June 2023: A.1.

The idea of "holobionts" represents a paradigm shift in biology.

""How many cells are there in a human being?" It sounds like a question from a nerdy pub quiz. It is also a profound philosophical inquiry. One answer is around 37trn. This is the number, in a typical adult weighing 70kg, that trace their descent from the fertilised egg which brought that human into existence.

 

Look at it another way, though, and you arrive at a figure roughly twice as large. That adds in the archaean, bacterial, fungal and protist cells which occupy the mouth, gut, skin, lungs and almost every other surface, nook and cranny of the human body. These cells contribute only about 0.3% to a person's body weight. But being, on the whole, much smaller than "proper" human cells, they are almost equally numerous.

 

That human beings have this accompanying microbiome is not news. Nor is it news that, while some of those extra cells are mere passengers, others are actively beneficial. The idea of symbiosis, in which different species live together intimately and collaboratively, goes back to the 19th century. 

 

Yet what started as a finite list of unusual cases has gradually grown to the point where it is clear that almost every multicellular organism—and even some single-celled ones—have symbionts.

 

This suggests to some biologists that the time is ripe for a "paradigm shift"—a new way for scientists to look at the world. Out, they say, with the old idea of plants and animals "having a microbiome", and in with the idea that both are merely parts of a united meta-organism whose components evolve in concert with each other. And in, too, with a name for these communal critters: holobionts.

 

Holistic thinking

 

One believer in this way of thinking is Thomas Bell, head of the Leverhulme Centre for the Holobiont at Imperial College, London, which opened in January. Paradigm shifts have many causes. But one that has helped tip the balance in this case is a technology called metagenomics. Dr Bell and his colleagues plan to apply it to a wide range of known and potential holobionts.

 

Metagenomics analyses simultaneously the genomes of everything in a sample—be it of soil, water, leaf litter or a mashed-up part of a plant or animal. Before its invention, trying to work out which microbes were present in such samples was tricky. Few bugs are amenable to being cultured in a laboratory, so many were, in effect, invisible to science. These days you can run a relevant extract of any organism you care to mention through the metagenomics mill—and if you do so, it is likely to show up as a holobiont.

 

Dr Bell and his colleagues are looking, in particular, at insects, amphibians and plants. Besides being eukaryotes—meaning their cells have proper nuclei and contain complex structures called organelles—these have little enough in common, evolutionarily speaking. Each group was picked for study because viewing its members as holobionts rather than individual creatures is illuminating.

 

Among insects, the centre is starting with bark beetles and honeybees. Bark beetles' holobiont nature is emphasised by the fact that some have evolved special structures called mycangia, which carry fungal spores. The spores grow thin tendrils called hyphae that allow them to digest wood. That releases nutrients which the beetles can metabolise. But if these fungi (one of the best known of which causes Dutch elm disease) get out of hand, they can devastate entire forests.

 

Honeybees, meanwhile, are important pollinators, a behaviour that may result in hives exchanging microbiomes via flowers their members visit. Some bee populations also show signs of being under stress, possibly from insecticide use. Several of Dr Bell's colleagues suspect the explanation for this lies not in the animal part of the holobiont, but rather in its microbial part.

 

Amphibians are on the list because many are threatened with extinction by skin fungi called chytrids, which have been spread from their Asian homeland by humans. Along with researchers at London Zoo, the centre's scientists are studying the diversity of amphibian skin microbiomes, and whether this can give the meta-organism immunity to chytrid infection.

 

Plants find themselves in the centre's crosshairs because most are accompanied by a "rhizosphere" of bacteria and fungi attached to, or even penetrating their roots. The rhizosphere's biochemical pathways increase the range of nutrients available to the holobiont as a whole. The rhizosphere is sustained in turn by carbohydrates and other nutrients synthesised by the holobiont's plant component.

 

A beneficial alliance

 

Work like Dr Bell's means the idea of holobionts as a meaningful category is catching on (see chart). But for it to be accepted fully, it needs to be disentangled and defined. As Scott Gilbert, a developmental biologist at Swarthmore College, puts it, "This notion [of holobionts] challenges and seeks to replace the concept of a monogenomic individual whose essential identity arises during development, is maintained by the immune system, and which is selected through evolution." That is a big claim.

 

One possible stumbling block is individual continuity. For organisms as conventionally classified, the link between parent and offspring is clear. For putative holobionts, it can be less so. Rather than growing from a single fertilised egg, holobionts have to be assembled. Sometimes the components are passed between parents and offspring. Humans, for example, are born with some microbes already in their guts. They pick up others during the messy process of birth, and more from their mother's milk. In these circumstances it is easy to see how the various components of a holobiont could co-evolve into a single, functioning unit.

 

Plants tend to make their associations horizontally—forming alliances with microbes already living in the soil in which they germinated. That might be thought to weaken the case for the resulting alliances behaving as single evolutionary units. In fact, calculations by Joan Roughgarden, an evolutionary biologist at Stanford University, show that horizontal transmission also supports co-evolution, and thus the emergence of true holobionts.

 

One piece of evidence to suggest she is right comes from a study of switchgrass by Thomas Juenger, a biologist at the University Texas, Austin. If plants and their rhizospheres are evolutionary units, they might be expected to collect a "core" microbiome that is encouraged into existence by specific genes in the plant. Switchgrass has three genetically distinct populations in North America. By comparing these and their associated rhizospheres, Dr Juenger showed a relationship between a plant's genes, particularly those associated with its immune system, and which bacteria thrived in the resulting rhizosphere.

 

Sometimes, as with bark beetles and their mycangia, the evolutionary integration of primary host and microbiome is obvious even without a genetic analysis. Mastotermes darwiniensis, an Australian termite, relies on gut microbes to break the tough wood it eats into molecules which the holobiont's animal part can metabolise. Mixotricha paradoxa, one of those fibre-digesting components, is itself a composite of a protist (a single-celled eukaryote) and four types of bacteria. Lynn Margulis, the American biologist who coined the term holobiont in 1991, called this critter "the beast with five genomes".

 

Aphids are equally intriguing. All members of this group carry bacteria of the genus Buchnera, a variety unknown anywhere else. In a relationship reckoned to date back around 200m years, Buchnera live inside specialised aphid cells called bacteriocytes. The bacteria are so cossetted that they have shed most of the genes they started with, relying on their animal partners to fill the biochemical gaps. In exchange, they synthesise amino acids the insects are unable to make for themselves.

 

Nor does the story end there. Many aphids host a second bug, Hamiltonella defensa, in their bacteriocytes. These critters, which also rely on Buchnera for their supply of amino acids, kill the larvae of parasitic wasps that would otherwise consume an aphid alive. But that, in turn, happens only in the presence of a virus called APSE—an even smaller metaphorical flea in the holobiont hierarchy.

 

All that is reminiscent of the most extreme case of holobiontry: that of organelles called mitochondria and chloroplasts. Mitochondria generate energy by metabolising glucose, and are found in all eukaryotes. Chloroplasts engage in photosynthesis, and are restricted to algae and plants. Both are the distant descendants of formerly free-living bacteria that began their relationship with the cells they now call home over a billion years ago. (It was these two cases which led Margulis to coin the term holobiont.)

 

The holobionic man

 

The varying degrees of intimacy on display—from surface passenger to vital cellular component—do raise the question of where, exactly, the borders of the term "holobiont" lie. But biology is full of concepts that are at once fuzzy and useful ("species" is one). Perhaps the most important job of the concept is to act as a reminder to biologists never to neglect a possible role for the microbiome in any phenomenon they are trying to understand. For example, the study of the evolution of pesticide resistance in insects usually involves the genome of the insect itself. But resistance by pests called bean bugs to fenitrothion, an insecticide, is conferred by bacteria of the genus Burkholderia which live in their guts—important knowledge, if you want to counter that resistance.

 

And there are even stranger powers brought to holobionts by their microbial parts. For example, certain bacteria are sensitive to magnetic fields. Researchers suspect some may have formed alliances with creatures such as turtles and birds, enabling these animal-based collectives to use Earth's field to navigate. More familiarly, it is the holobiont nature of dogs (and also hyenas and other carnivores with anal glands) that enables them to communicate via scent marks. The odours they deposit this way are created by bacterial degradation of secretions into these glands.

 

The best studied animal holobiont of all is Homo sapiens. Topologically, a human being is a torus—a three-dimensional object with a hole through the middle. The hole in question is the alimentary canal. Nearly the whole surface of this torus is home to microbes, though different parts have different inhabitants. By far the largest numbers of them live in the lower gut.

 

These gut microbes extend the digestive capabilities of the human holobiont in the same way (though not to the same degree) as happens in termites, by breaking up fibrous plant polymers into smaller molecules that the other 37trn cells can metabolise. But they produce lots of other molecules, too, some of which send signals to the holobiont's animal cells. Those cells, moreover, often signal back.

 

This signalling seems particularly influential over parts of the nervous system. Among the molecules secreted by gut bacteria are serotonin, GABA and catecholamines. All are neurotransmitters, chemicals which carry impulses between nerve cells. The microbiome is thus an integral part of the gut-brain axis, the constant neural chatter between the largest group of nerve cells in the body (the central nervous system) and the second-largest (the enteric nervous system).

 

The third big interaction between host and microbiome involves the immune system. This brokers the deal that keeps the whole show on the road by preventing any particular part of the microbiome running riot—a task at least as important as fending off infectious diseases. In return, a well-balanced microbiome assists the immune system by preventing pathogenic bugs from multiplying in the intestines.

 

The gut microbiome is thus deeply integrated with the mammalian part of the human holobiont—as can be seen when that integration goes wrong. Dysbiosis, as this is known, is at least associated with, and in many cases probably helps cause, obesity, diabetes, high blood pressure, atherosclerosis, asthma, inflammatory bowel disease, some liver diseases, various cancers, autism, Parkinson's disease and depression. And this is not an exhaustive list.

 

Looking beyond the 37trn mammalian cells in this way can be medically fruitful. A largely plant-based diet, for example, encourages fibrolytic bugs, while a meat-rich one favours those that thrive on fat and proteins. As a consequence, plant-based diets yield molecules such as butyric and propionic acids which are known to regulate inflammation and other immune-system functions. Meat-based ones result in branched-chain fatty acids, and phenols and indoles, which have a range of bad effects, including being risk factors for bad cardiovascular health.

 

Fixing things with holobionics

 

Crop breeders, too, are starting to take the holobiont concept seriously. Field agents for Indigo Ag, in Boston, Massachusetts, identify rare survivors in farmers' fields of events like droughts and infestations, and send these plants in for study. The assumption is that there is something special about such survivors. Indigo's foundational guess was that this special something is often in the rhizosphere.

 

Pursuing that thought, the firm has found—and now markets—rhizospheric bugs which confer drought-tolerance on cotton, maize, soyabeans and wheat; improve resistance to fungi in maize, soyabeans and wheat; guard against nematode attack; liberate phosphorus and potassium from the soil; and "fix" atmospheric nitrogen by turning it into molecules such as nitrates, which plants can use to make amino acids, the building blocks of proteins.

 

Another firm, Pivot Bio of Berkeley, California, is concentrating on nitrogen fixation. Pivot's researchers have edited the genes of two types of nitrogen-fixing bacteria so that they continue to work even when there is already plenty in the soil, and also turn out more fixed nitrogen than they usually would. When planted alongside a crop such as maize, a cocktail of these bugs provides an instant, nitrogen-fixing rhizosphere for each seedling. That can reduce fertiliser use by a fifth.

 

Jean-Michel Ané of the University of Wisconsin-Madison, who is, inter alia, a scientific adviser to Pivot, has two other nitrogen-fixing ideas up his sleeve. One, observing that legumes grow special root nodules to house nitrogen-fixing bacteria, is to reshape the roots of cereals (rice is the main target) so that they grow similar nodules. He and his colleagues have identified two leguminous genes that, when transplanted to poplars (a common experimental plant) cause them to grow nodules too.

 

Dr Ané's other idea is based on unusual strains of maize and sorghum that grow aerial roots which secrete a gel in which nitrogen-fixing bacteria like to live. This gel then drips to the ground, where the fixed nitrogen is absorbed by the plant's roots. In the case of maize, he and his colleagues have managed to cross-breed plants carrying this trait with commercial cultivars, and are now into the fifth generation of plants bearing it.

 

Cattle and other livestock are also coming under scrutiny. Their termite-like digestive systems generate more than 100m tonnes of methane a year, about 6% of the greenhouse-gas emissions for which humans are responsible. The bugs in question can be curbed by adding either of two substances to cattle feed—a chemical called 3-nitrooxypropanol or a seaweed called Asparagopsis taxiformis. Indeed, adding A. taxiformis not only curbs methane output, but also increases the conversion rate of feed into milk or meat.

 

Conservationists see promise in thinking of organisms as holobionts, too. That is the motive for Dr Bell's work on amphibians. Others, though, are looking to help entire ecosystems. Both forests and coral reefs are temperature-sensitive and thus threatened by global warming. Viewing their members as holobionts may allow ecologists to help them adjust.

 

Like Indigo's researchers, Cassandra Allsup, Isabelle George and Richard Lankau, of the University of Wisconsin–Madison, have been looking at soil microbes. They have sampled forests in their home state and in Illinois to the south. Testing seedlings of various species grown near the north and south of this span, which are 5.8 degrees of latitude apart, they found that those grown in soil inoculated with bacteria from sites with similar climates grew faster than those in soil given bugs from different ones. Though inoculating entire forests is not practical, they hope that treating nursery-grown saplings intended for local reforestation projects might help those trees' survival.

 

Like humans, corals are a particularly well-studied meta-organisms. Their tourist-attracting colours come from photosynthetic protists called zooxanthellae that live inside special cells in the sessile animals responsible for secreting the limestone of which coral heads are made—and it is these which provide the holobiont with most of its nutrition.

 

A weakness of this arrangement is that if zooxanthellae get too hot, their photosynthetic mechanisms go haywire, generating toxic oxygen-rich molecules called free radicals. The coral animals then expel them, a phenomenon called bleaching. If conditions return to normal in time, recolonisation may occur. But corals that remain bleached for too long will die.

 

Some people are trying to inculcate resistance to rising temperatures by tinkering with the genes of the animal part of the system. But Madeleine van Oppen of Melbourne University, in Australia, and Raquel Peixoto of King Abdullah University, in Saudi Arabia, are looking, in separate projects, to tweak either the zooxanthellae, or some of the many bacteria which are also part of the holobiont.

 

Such ecosystem engineering represents holobionic thinking on a grand scale. Whether it will lead somewhere fruitful remains to be seen. But the very fact that it is happening at all is, surely, testament to an idea whose hour has come.” [1]

 

 

1. "The idea of 'holobionts' represents a paradigm shift in biology." The Economist, 17 June 2023, p. NA.