Diamonds, Tales and De Beers

“Emmanuelle Nodale, head of the De Beers London retail operation, talks about building the brand “on design, icons and storytelling.”

 

Despite falling revenue and uncertainty about its future ownership, the multinational diamond producer De Beers Group spent much of 2025 executing a series of strategic changes.

 

Along with winding down Lightbox, its lab-grown diamond brand, and introducing Desert Diamonds, a campaign celebrating natural diamonds of myriad colors and cuts, the group rebranded its De Beers Jewellers retail operation as De Beers London. And in June, Emmanuelle Nodale, a former Kering business executive, was appointed chief executive of that division.

 

Her goals? “To build a strong high jewelry brand based on design, icons and storytelling,” she said in a video interview in December.

 

Some analysts, however, have been skeptical of De Beers’s retailing efforts.

 

“De Beers London generates $100 million in annual sales at best, but I think there are more efficient ways for De Beers to drive demand for natural diamonds,” Paul Zimnisky, an independent diamond analyst, wrote in an email.

 

The Bernstein luxury analyst Luca Solca agreed, writing that “what De Beers has to confront is the disruption from lab-grown diamonds,” yet he acknowledged that “refocusing on design rather than stones could be a get-out-of-jail card — though that will be challenging given the deeply entrenched competition in this area.”

 

Ms. Nodale, however, talked optimistically about grounding “the brand in its Southern African origins and London’s creative energy,” rolling out the retail environment developed for its new Paris store and why she loves the Talisman medallion design. The interview has been edited and condensed.

 

What are the strategic priorities for De Beers London?

 

Our strategy is about reinforcing the brand’s core identity. De Beers London has a direct link to diamond mines, allowing us to tell the complete journey of the diamond — from its geological origins deep within the earth to its transformation into fine jewelry.

 

Why was the brand name changed? And what does London add to its identity?

 

London is our cultural home.

 

Adding London to the brand name underscores the creativity and cosmopolitan energy that define both the city and the brand.

 

You are opening a flagship store in Paris in January. Why Paris?

 

Every high jewelry maison needs a Parisian home.

 

While De Beers is present in department stores, it lacked a flagship in the world capital of haute joaillerie.

 

The new location on Rue de la Paix, near Place Vendôme, places the brand alongside leading maisons, supports couture presentations in January and July, and strengthens access to both French and international high jewelry clients.

 

The Paris flagship also introduces De Beers London’s global retail concept.

 

What is unique about the Paris store concept?

 

The store immerses clients in the journey of the diamond. Upon entering, visitors encounter a chandelier inspired by rough diamonds and a monumental kimberlite wall sculpture crafted from real kimberlite, volcanic rock embedded with diamond powder and sourced from De Beers mines.

 

The interiors reflect Southern African landscapes and colors, from Namibian blues to Botswana sand tones. And a dedicated London Library Room is a reference to the brand’s British cultural home.

 

This concept will be rolled out globally, beginning with Hong Kong and later New York.

 

Many jewelry brands are focusing on their most recognizable designs, like Cartier introducing a variation of its Love bracelet and Van Cleef & Arpels expanding its Alhambra collection. Is De Beers London doing something similar?

 

We are focused on strengthening and expanding our icons, particularly Talisman and Lotus. These collections will be extended across a broader price spectrum — from entry-level to high jewelry — while preserving their core aesthetic codes.

 

You say you want De Beers London to be a strong high jewelry brand. What role does high jewelry play in the business?

 

High jewelry is strategically important both for business performance and brand image. Couture collections articulate the maison’s design authority and storytelling, as demonstrated by the recent tree-inspired collection, which performed exceptionally well.

 

De Beers London will continue presenting couture collections twice yearly in Paris and is already developing concepts through 2028.

 

De Beers has long been associated with engagement rings and bridal jewelry, but it sounds like you want to move beyond that identity.

 

Bridal remains important, but collections and high jewelry are growing rapidly, leading to a rebalancing of the business. The objective is to move beyond a purely transactional bridal model and build an emotional, design-driven brand centered on icons and storytelling.

 

What in your background prepared you for this role?

 

I began my career in finance and strategy, which gave me a strong analytical foundation and a disciplined approach to building long-term plans and setting a clear vision that guide decisions. That strategic mind set continues to shape how I think about brands today.

 

Alongside this, I’ve spent more than 10 years in the jewelry industry, including Pomellato, working closely on brand building, defining and strengthening brand DNA and ensuring consistency across all touch points.

 

I’ve also been deeply involved in growing brand icons, as well as supporting retail expansion through store openings and network development.

 

What’s your favorite piece from De Beers London?

 

My favorite piece is the Talisman medallion. Because it features rough diamonds, every Talisman piece is unique.

 

I wear it every day and often touch it instinctively, almost like a protective talisman. It fully expresses the spirit and authenticity of the brand.” [1]

 

1. Diamonds, Tales and De Beers. Lazazzera, Milena.  New York Times (Online) New York Times Company. Jan 25, 2026.