Yet neither drought nor frost is ever a concern for the growers of tomatoes, strawberries and other crops currently ripening inside enormous greenhouses, some sprawling across 175 acres, in North America and Europe. Here a revolution is quietly taking place, perhaps the most potentially disruptive since Cyrus McCormick’s reaper. Vegetables are increasingly being grown indoors, using an advanced and intensive form of growing called controlled environment agriculture, a method that has the potential to help feed the planet, even while it threatens to further warm it.
Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, lettuce and berries are increasingly as likely to come from Canadian or American greenhouses as from fields in Florida or Mexico. Last year, more than a third of the fresh tomatoes sold in the United States, including every slice that topped a Wendy’s burger, were grown indoors.
A vast majority of the more than 2,300 controlled environment greenhouses in the United States — 100-acre structures or smaller “vertical farms” that grow crops on trays stacked to the ceiling — replace the warmth and light from the sun with fossil-fuel power, giving a new meaning to the term “greenhouse gas.” While there are efforts to make controlled agriculture more energy efficient — such as locating greenhouses adjacent to power or water treatment plants (or even server farms) to capture the waste heat those facilities generate — even greenhouses that boast renewable electricity sources for lighting generally use natural gas for heating because it’s far more cost-effective.
But various studies conducted in the United States, Europe and Canada have estimated that, on average, the production of a pound of tomatoes in an American or Northern European greenhouse using fossil fuel energy releases 3 to 3.5 pounds of carbon into the atmosphere.
That is, these studies suggest, about six times the carbon footprint of a field tomato, even taking into account the diesel emissions from refrigerated trucks that often transport field vegetables hundreds or even thousands of miles to reach consumers. Greenhouses, by contrast, can be located near major population centers, as is the case with large vertical farms often constructed in repurposed factories and warehouses.
Feeding the planet already accounts for roughly one-quarter of all greenhouse gas emissions. Animal protein, in particular beef and dairy cattle production, has a more consequential carbon footprint than vegetable farming. Nevertheless, in a rapidly warming world, should we be increasing agriculture’s contribution by moving some of it indoors?
We have little choice, say proponents. With the global population expected to grow by 25 percent to nearly 10 billion people by 2050, food production will need to increase by 60 percent to 100 percent. With fresh water supplies and arable land dwindling, and droughts exacerbated by climate change threatening to turn California’s fertile heartland into barren desert, where will this additional food come from?
Jonathan Webb, the 37-year-old chief executive of AppHarvest, a start-up that recently built a 60-acre controlled environment greenhouse in the heart of Appalachian Kentucky, told Yahoo Finance last month that “20, 30 years from now, you’re going to be growing most fruits and vegetables at scale globally in a controlled environment.” AppHarvest raised $475 million from venture capitalists and other investors before going public last year with an initial valuation of $1 billion. This, mind you, is a company that sells tomatoes.