Quiet quitters are quietly unhappy with grueling hours and intense
workplace culture. Some bosses wake up, smell the coffee and close the doors. More of
such bosses are needed. Human life is too short and brutal as it is without
them adding to the brutality of it.
"The Copenhagen chef René Redzepi says fine dining at the
highest level, with its grueling hours and intense workplace culture, has hit a
breaking point: “It’s unsustainable.”
Since opening two decades ago, Noma — the Copenhagen
restaurant currently serving grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine, and
saffron ice cream in a beeswax bowl — has transformed fine dining. A new global
class of gastro tourists schedules first-class flights and entire vacations
around the privilege of paying at least $500 per person for its multicourse tasting
menu.
Noma has repeatedly topped lists of the world’s best
restaurants, and its creator, René Redzepi, has been hailed as his era’s most
brilliant and influential chef.
Nevertheless, Mr. Redzepi told The New York Times, the
restaurant will close for regular service at the end of 2024.
Noma will become a full-time food laboratory, developing new
dishes and products for its e-commerce operation, Noma Projects, and the dining
rooms will be open only for periodic pop-ups. His role will become something
closer to chief creative officer than chef.
This move is likely to send shock waves through the culinary
world. To put it in soccer terms: Imagine that Manchester United decided to
close Old Trafford stadium to fans, though the team would continue to play.
The decision comes as Noma and many other elite restaurants
are facing scrutiny of their treatment of the workers, many of them paid poorly
or not at all, who produce and serve these exquisite dishes. The style of fine
dining that Noma helped create and promote around the globe — wildly
innovative, labor-intensive and vastly expensive — may be undergoing a
sustainability crisis.
Mr. Redzepi, who has long acknowledged that grueling hours
are required to produce the restaurant’s cuisine, said that the math of
compensating nearly 100 employees fairly, while maintaining high standards, at
prices that the market will bear, is not workable.
“We have to completely rethink the industry,” he said. “This
is simply too hard, and we have to work in a different way.”
The chef David Kinch, who last week closed his three-Michelin-starred
restaurant Manresa, in Los Gatos, Calif., said, “the last 30 years were a
gilded age,” when ambitious restaurants multiplied and became less formal and
more exciting. His casual restaurants will remain open, but he said fine dining
was no longer something he wanted to do himself, or to inflict on his staff,
calling the work “backbreaking.”
“Fine dining is at a
crossroads, and there have to be huge changes,” he said. “The whole industry
realizes that, but they do not know how it’s going to come out.”
The Finnish chef Kim Mikkola, who worked at Noma for four
years, said that fine dining, like diamonds, ballet and other elite pursuits,
often has abuse built into it.
“Everything luxetarian is built on somebody’s back; somebody
has to pay,” he said.
Mr. Mikkola, who is building a chain of sustainable,
equitably run fried-chicken sandwich shops, KotKot, said he values the artistry
he learned at Noma. “Do we want to tell everyone not to have great experiences,
to just eat potatoes?” he said. “Absolutely not. That’s the dilemma.”
Creativity and Its Costs
As the human cost of the industry comes under scrutiny, Mr.
Redzepi’s headaches have multiplied, with media reporting and online activism
critical of Noma’s treatment of foreign workers and reliance on unpaid interns.
In October, Noma began paying its interns, adding at least $50,000 to its
monthly labor costs.
In the past two years, Mr. Redzepi and his staff also scaled
their last remaining mountaintop, receiving a third Michelin star, and for a
record-breaking fifth time, Noma topped the influential World’s 50 Best
Restaurants list, making it ineligible for future wins.
Mr. Redzepi denied that any of those factors prompted the
decision to close Noma’s doors. Instead, he said, operating at the high level
that has earned Noma international adulation had long felt untenable. But until
the Covid pandemic kept him at home, he said, he had never stopped working long
enough to question whether the whole business model might be broken.
For the last decade, Mr. Redzepi, 45, has been on a rather
public spiritual journey, embracing therapy, coaching and walking meditation in
order to exorcise the famously rageful, mercurial and workaholic young chef he
was when he opened Noma in 2003. He said that process brought him to this
breaking point.
“It’s unsustainable,” he said of the modern fine-dining
model that he helped create. “Financially and emotionally, as an employer and
as a human being, it just doesn’t work.”
A newly empowered generation of workers has begun pushing
back against that model, often using social media to call out employers. The
Willows Inn, in Washington State, run by the Noma-trained chef Blaine Wetzel,
closed in November, after a 2021 Times report on systemic abuse and harassment;
top destinations like Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Eleven Madison Park have
faced media investigations into working conditions. Recent films and TV series
like “The Menu,” “Boiling Point” and “The Bear” have brought the image of
armies of harried young chefs, silently wielding tweezers in service to a
chef-auteur, into popular culture.
In a 2015 essay, Mr. Redzepi admitted to bullying his staff
verbally and physically, and has often acknowledged that his efforts to be a
calmer, kinder leader have not been fully successful.
“In an ideal restaurant, employees could work four days a
week, feel empowered and safe and creative,” Mr. Redzepi said. “The problem is
how to pay them enough to afford children, a car and a house in the suburbs.”
Mr. Redzepi’s reputation was built on his challenges to
fine-dining tradition, most famously discarding imported delicacies like French
foie gras and Italian truffles in favor of local and foraged ingredients like
spruce tips, two-year-old carrots and duck brains. The cooking style became
known as New Nordic, and swept all of Scandinavia into a new status as an elite
culinary destination.
Scores of chefs have moved to Denmark to study Mr. Redzepi’s
work, then spread his style to other countries; having a Noma pedigree opens
doors and investors’ wallets all over the world, several alumni said. Frequent
keynote speeches at food summits have elevated Mr. Redzepi to the role of
global visionary. He has been knighted by the queen of Denmark, and published a
book on leadership with the Nelson Mandela Foundation.
But the kitchen culture at Noma did not always live up to
the ideals it projected. In interviews, dozens of people who worked at Noma
between 2008 and 2021 said that 16-hour workdays have long been routine, even
for unpaid workers.
A Noma spokeswoman replied, “While our industry has been
characterized by long working hours, this is something we at Noma constantly
work to improve.”
An Intern’s Life
Noma’s internship program has also served as a way for Noma
to shore up its labor force, supplying 20 to 30 full-time workers (“stagiaires”
is the traditional French term) who do much of the painstaking labor —
hand-peeling walnuts and separating lavender leaves from stems — that defines
Noma’s food and aesthetic.
Until last October, the program provided only a work visa.
However, being able to say, “I staged at Noma” is a priceless culinary credential.
For that reason alone, most of the alumni interviewed said that an internship
at Noma is worth the expense, the exhaustion and the stress.
Namrata Hegde, 26, had just graduated from culinary school
in Hyderabad, India, when she was chosen as an intern in 2017. Knowing nothing
about Noma except that many called it the best restaurant in the world, she
flew to Copenhagen to live and work at her own expense for three months.
For most of that time, Ms. Hegde said, her sole job was to
produce fruit-leather beetles, starting with a thick jam of black fruit and
silicone stencils with insect parts carved out. Another intern taught her how
to spread the jam evenly, monitor the drying process, then use tweezers to
assemble the head, thorax, abdomen and wings. Ms. Hegde repeated the process
until she had 120 perfect specimens; each diner was served a single beetle in a
wooden box.
She said the experience taught her to be quick, quiet and
organized, but little about cooking. “I didn’t expect that I would use my knife
only a couple of times a day,” she said, “or that I would be told I didn’t need
my tasting spoon because there was nothing to taste.”
Ms. Hegde said she was required to work in silence by the
junior chefs she assisted (Mr. Redzepi was rarely in the kitchen where she
worked), and was specifically forbidden to laugh.
“I thought an internship was about me learning, as well
about contributing to Noma’s success,” she said. “I don’t believe that kind of
toxic work environment is necessary.”
The Noma spokeswoman said that all restaurant workers are
expected to perform repetitive tasks, and that Ms. Hegde’s account “does not
reflect our workplace or the experience we wish for our interns or anyone on
our team.”
The fact that exploitation and abuse in kitchens persist,
even in protective societies like Denmark’s, has recently been highlighted by
the Danish activist Lisa Lind Dunbar, an industry veteran in Copenhagen (who
has not worked at Noma).
She and a dozen other people said a code of loyalty among
Noma alumni, including chefs at many of Copenhagen’s top restaurants, makes it
impossible for workers at those restaurants to speak out about working
conditions, sexual harassment and other problems.
“It’s a Mafia mentality, and he is the don,” she said of Mr.
Redzepi. “No one defies him publicly or privately.”
The Noma spokeswoman responded, “That is not something we
recognize as accurate.” She also said that he has long acknowledged these
systemic problems, and worked to change them.
But Ms. Dunbar said Mr. Redzepi had two decades to do that.
“He hasn’t tried enough,” she said.
Ending the ‘Production Line’
So what will become of the Noma brand?
Mr. Redzepi said it has not made him wealthy, because his
commitment to high-quality ingredients and flawless execution is so costly. He
declined to provide specifics, but according to public records, he is a
majority owner of Noma, and part owner of multiple popular ventures run by Noma
alumni.
Opening satellite restaurants around the world, as many
chefs have done to increase revenue, would not solve the problem, he said. “I
have been offered countless blank checks in Qatar. It doesn’t entice me.”
Mr. Redzepi, who has been cooking professionally since age
15, said he had long wanted out of the “production line” aspect of restaurant
cooking. He said advance commitments and building Noma Projects — including a
new production facility, with 60 to 70 full-time employees — are the reason the
change will not take effect for nearly two years.
“I hope we can prove to the world that you can grow old and
be creative and have fun in the industry,” he said. “Instead of hard, grueling,
low-paid work under poor management conditions that wears people out.”"
Enjoy your potatoes, people. KotKot
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