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Party Trick: Let Them Eat Soup --- Don't be intimidated by the snazzy presentation. French onion soup makes for an easy party.


“The other night, during a blizzard, a friend sent out a group text: "I've bought all the onions from the neighborhood and am gearing up to make French onion soup. Would love the company if anyone wants to venture out."

 

I love an impromptu party, especially in the dead of winter and when it involves a luxurious, steamy bowl of soup. I sent an all-caps "YES," and reached for my boots.

 

I've always thought of French onion soup as the Louis Vuitton of winter meals: timeless, iconic and quite the flex. Whenever I see it on a bistro menu, I order it. If I didn't have the fancy, rustic crocks to serve the soup in, or restaurant-quality stock there was no point in even trying at home. My friend showed another way, starting with excellent housemade beef stock from a local butcher.

 

The other revelation, when I walked into my friend's kitchen and saw two big pots on the stove? The dish can be almost entirely prepped ahead, taking the pressure off.

 

She had sliced and toasted the baguette, and pre-grated a small mountain of aged Gruyere. Individual ovenproof bowls were ready on sheet trays so when it came time to serve, all she had to do was ladle in the steaming soup, top each one with bread and cheese, and broil until bubbly and golden.

 

When my spoon broke through the wobbly layer of cheesy bread and resurfaced all gooey and molten, the winter suddenly didn't seem so bad.

 

If you want to offer something before or after, keep it simple: a small array of cheeses on a cutting board, a bowl of lightly dressed microgreens, a few extra baguettes and, of course, some French wine.

 

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French Onion Soup

 

Total Time: 2 hours

 

Serves: 6

 

Homemade stock is always going to make for better soup. Try your local butcher or specialty grocer. But if you are using a packaged broth that needs more oomph, add a teaspoon or two of Better Than Bouillon's beef flavor. For a subtler boozy touch, go with Sherry. For more moxie, use brandy or cognac.

 

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

 

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

 

6-8 medium yellow onions (about 3 pounds) peeled, halved and thinly sliced

 

1 clove garlic

 

1 teaspoon kosher salt

 

Freshly ground black pepper

 

3/4 cup dry white wine

 

8 cups (2 quarts) beef or vegetable stock, warmed

 

2 bay leaves

 

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

 

1/2 cup dry Sherry, brandy or cognac

 

1 baguette, cut into 1-inch thick slices

 

2 1/2 cups (1/2 pound) grated aged Gruyere cheese

 

1. In a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, melt butter in oil. Add onions, garlic, salt and lots of cranks of black pepper. Cover and cook, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, 45-60 minutes.

 

2. Add wine and deglaze the pot, scraping up the brown bits, and reduce liquid by half, 2-3 minutes. Add stock, bay leaves and thyme, and simmer for about 30 minutes. Discard garlic and bay leaves. Stir in Sherry, brandy or cognac. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

 

3. Meanwhile, arrange ovenproof bowls on a large sheet tray. Toast the baguette slices so they don't become soggy.

 

4. Ladle hot soup into each bowl, top snugly with baguette slices, then cover generously with Gruyere.

 

5. Place under a hot broiler until cheese is bubbling and golden, 2-3 minutes maximum. (This is not the time to get distracted.) Serve immediately.” [A]

 

A. OFF DUTY --- Eating & Drinking -- Party Trick: Let Them Eat Soup --- Don't be intimidated by the snazzy presentation. French onion soup makes for an easy party. Williams, Odette.  Wall Street Journal, Eastern edition; New York, N.Y.. 21 Feb 2026: D7.  

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